1. Pick up an even number of beads, leaving the desired length tail (a–b). These beads will shift to form the first two rows as the third row is added.
2. To begin row 3, pick up a bead, skip the last bead added in the previous step, and sew back through the next bead, working toward the tail (b–c). For each stitch, pick up a bead, skip a bead in the previous row, and sew through the next bead until you reach the first bead picked up in step 1 (c–d). The beads added in this row are higher than the previous rows and are referred to as “up-beads.”
3. For each stitch in subsequent rows, pick up a bead, and sew through the next up-bead in the previous row (d–e). To count peyote stitch rows, add the total number of beads along both straight edges. tip Is your beadwork twisty and loose after working row 3? Not to worry! Simply pull the working thread taut, pressing your thumbnail against the end bead to get the rows to straighten out.
Work two-drop peyote stitch the same way as basic flat peyote, but treat pairs of beads as if they were single beads.
- To work in even-count two-drop peyote, pick up an even number of beads that is divisible by four. For odd-count two-drop peyote, pick up an even number of beads that is divisible by two and an odd number.
- To begin row 3, pick up two beads, skip the last two beads added in step 1, and sew back through the next two beads. Repeat this stitch across the row.
- For subsequent rows, pick up and sew through two beads per stitch. Work each turn the same as in regular flat peyote, using the odd-count turn if you are working an odd-count pattern.
Odd-count peyote is the same as even-count peyote, except for the turn on odd-numbered rows, where the last bead of the row can’t be attached in the usual way because there is no up-bead to sew through.
1. Begin as for flat even-count peyote, but pick up an odd number of beads. Work row 3 as in even-count, stopping before adding the last bead.
2. Work a figure-8 turn at the end of row 3: Sew through the first bead picked up in step 1 (bead #1).
Pick up the last bead of the row you’re working on (bead #8), and sew through beads #2, #3, #7, #2, #1, and #8. You can work the figure-8 turn at the end of each odd-numbered row, but this will cause this edge to be stiffer than the other. Instead, in subsequent odd-numbered rows, pick up the last bead of the row, sew under the thread bridge between the last two edge beads, and sew back through the last bead added to begin the next row.
Tubular peyote stitch follows the same stitching pattern as flat peyote, but instead of sewing back and forth, work in rounds.
1. Pick up an even number of beads, and tie them into a ring with a square knot (see “Square knot”), leaving the desired length tail. If desired, slide the ring onto a dowel.
2. Sew through the first bead in the ring. Pick up a bead, skip a bead in the ring, and sew through the next bead. Repeat to complete the round.
3. To step up to start the next round, sew through the first bead added in this round (a–b).
4. Pick up a bead, and sew through the next bead in round 3 (b–c). Repeat this stitch to complete the round.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the desired length tube.
Circular peyote is also worked in continuous rounds like tubular peyote, but the rounds stay flat and radiate outward from the center as a result of increases or using larger beads. If the rounds do not increase, the edges will curve upward.
Stitch in the ditch
The “stitch in the ditch” technique is done on top of an existing layer of peyote. Exit the beadwork as directed in the project instructions. Pick up a bead, and sew through the next bead in the same row. Repeat across the row or as directed.
Zipping up or joining
To join two pieces of flat peyote invisibly, match up the two pieces so the end rows fit together. “Zip up” the pieces by zigzagging through the up-beads on both ends.